Nepali Food

An ode to Nepali food, specifically the cooking of Janakpur Safehouse chef Ragini, fondly known as Khusi. I am a dairy-free vegetarian. Whilst I know Nepal is very accessible for vegetarians, I was worried about the ghee and yoghurt situation. The food did not disappoint, however, and I really appreciated how I was always fed with something I could eat. Khusi joked that she would make me fat, and well…. It was no joke. Typically, you eat dal bhat for breakfast. This is a bowl of lentil soup, with rice and curried vegetables. Some of the curries included potato, sponge gourd, squash, and water spinach. Each flavour was perfectly spiced, and having seconds was vital for how tasty it all was. 

An interesting dish, new to me, is a Nepali staple: chatpate. This is puffed rice with crushed uncooked instant ramen, boiled potatoes, raw cucumber, onions and tomatoes and a sliding scale on spice. I had one chatpate from a street food cart in Janakpur and about halfway through eating, I realised I could no longer feel my mouth. Your spice tolerance will certainly improve quickly here, as spice is a feature in every dish here. 

As my time here creeps to an end, I want to maintain my newfound need for spice when I leave. English food, in comparison to really anywhere, is too bland. Lunch in Nepal is usually called ‘snacks’. This can be anything from a plate of fruit (what I would consider a snack) to a spicy bowl of chow mein, a platter of freshly steamed vegetable momos, chatpate, or curried vegetables with rice. If you are offered snacks in the middle of the day, firstly always say yes as it will be delicious regardless and secondly, be prepared to be surprised each time! On Saturdays, Khusi would make the most divine mushroom curry. There were always leftovers for breakfast on Sunday, and I would try not to run to the Safe House on Sunday mornings to get a taste. 

Street food in Janakpur was always delicious (other than the extreme spice of that one particular chatpate). After a long morning shadowing at the police station, we visited a cart at the end of the road. A vegetable samosa was chopped up and topped with spicy chana, raw onions, and bhajis. It was a meal I will never forget. I would strongly advise trying the local street food, sweet shops, cafés, and restaurants. There is always apprehension around street food when travelling, and travellers’ tummies can be no joke. Staff and locals will know which ones are good to eat at, so I suggest going with friends. Empty places or stalls are usually empty for a reason, so consider that when making your decisions, and be mindful of food that is left out in the sun or uncovered. Piping hot or freshly fried is your safest bet. But if you do go in for the street food, you will be rewarded with a cacophony of deliciousness at the most affordable prices.